* Broad advice: don't over lube the internal components. Always clean around the cover plates before removing them.

* Check the brake drum for roundness, have it milled as needed.

* Acquire all the replacement parts, e.g.: pilot bearing, throwout bearing, clutch plates (fiber & steel as needed), pressure plate, and brake band (oversized if you've milled the brake drum). Also have on bearing grease, hand sealants, brake parts cleaner, steel wool & paper towels.

* Pack the pilot bearing with grease and install it. Clean everything very well when done.

* Thoroughly clean the interior of the steering clutch assembly, both the section still on the bulldozer and on the final drive. Use steel wool and brake cleaner to prep the machined flat faces for sealing. Clean all residues from the brake drum and steel clutch plates.

* Reassemble the steering clutch into the brake drum. First place a fiber clutch plate against the interior back wall of the brake drum, then a steel plate. Insert the interior drive hub with retaining clip. The drive hub's retaining clip lies in the same plane as the first steel clutch plate already in place. Insert the remaining fiber & steel plates. NB: If you try to mount all the plates onto the hub on the outside of the retaining clip (as described in some manuals), you will fail and have to dismount and dissasemble the final drive, and likely have to replace at least one fiber plate. I had a John Deere dealer mis-repair a couple of JD350 final drives, so I know it is a mistake one can make.

* Insert the drive shaft.

* Bolt on the pressure plate (torque to 20 ft/lbs). Be sure you can freely install and remove the drive shaft (loosen the pressure plate and re-align/re-tighten as needed). Actuate (or rap on) the pressure plate a few times to assure the plates are all snug and tight during the adjustment. Acquire or fabricate the plate guage (see photos), and adjust the three pressure plate fingers to the correct uniform height. You can tweak the standard height up a bit if you want to shorten the steering lever throw and take up some threads on your lever-to-throwout adjuster (if this sentence doesn't make sense, just ignore it and use the factory settings).

* Using the absolute minimum of grease, lube the bearing carrier shaft. Install the new throwout bearing onto the carrier and restore the return spring to lie in front of its upper retaining bolt. Lube the other internal components in the same fashion: minimally and with terrific care to not contaminate the brake or clutch, now or in the future.

* Install the brake shoe.

* You are ready to re-install the final drive.

* Ready a clean support rope for the brake drum. Remove the drive shaft and position the final drive proximate to its mounted position on the bulldozer. Install the drive shaft inside the bearing carrier tube with the pilot bearing end out. Install the 18" long 1/2" threaded rods and their support. Turn the final drive/brake drum until the drive shaft is aligned at both ends and will allow the final drive to slide to the bulldozer. Do not contaminate the brake drum during this alignment.

* Clean the brake drum one last time. Apply sealant to the machined face of the bulldozer where it meets the final drive. Put in a couple of bolts and pull the final drive into position. Install the Cross Bar mounting bolts. The John Deere manual notes the fact that special "barrel" bolts should be lubed with "Lubriplate" (tm) and torqued to 300 ft/lbs. The other two are torqued to 250 ft/lbs. All four of these bolts can be accessed from the side of the machine. Once they are installed, bolt up the rest of the final drive. The larger (upper) bolts torque to 175 ft/lbs, and the smaller (1/2") bolts torque to 85 ft/lbs.

* Adjust the steering clutches in the normal fashion.

* Restore the remaining components (track, side cylinder, fuel tank, etc). Adjust the track tension as usual.

* If you drained the final drive, replace the lubrication: c. 3 qts hydraulic fluid.

* Make a final inspection of the machine.

* Fire it up and test your new steering clutch. It should be in good working order. Once satisfied, it is a good practice to seal the steering clutch top plates: it is work to open the clutches for adjustment, but the risk of contamination is nearly eliminated by sealing them.