This is a one man job with the right tools. Click to see photos of a JD350 Steering Clutch R&R

* Pull rear floor panel and seat bottom. Pressure wash dozer's back, belly pan bolts, & side(s) & top, under the seat.

* Position bulldozer on shop floor for good access to the final drive by hoists/cranes/backhoe.

* Jack up the side of the bulldozer under repair until the track is clear of the floor. Hold back the off side steering clutch lever so that track does not spin, and turn the repair side track to orient the removable track retaining link pin. A hammer clears best when the pin is about centered, about one half way up the rear sprocket.

* Release or unscrew the Zirk fitting on the repair side track cylinder, to slacken the track. Use a block and the blade to compress the track cylinder if need be.

* Raise the 3 point hitch lift arms to highest position.

* Shut down motor. Drain the fuel tank and final drive: you can carry on while they drain.

* Remove the 3-point hitch lift arm chain limiters from the quadrant (the curved rail under the drawbar). Remove the 3-point hitch lift arms.

* Remove 9/16" retaining bolt from repair side lift cylinder front pin, and pull pin.

* Drive spring retaining pin from repair side lift cylinder rear pin, and pull pin.

* Pull top repair side bolt from rockshaft support at the rear of the dozer.

* String a hand winch and draw up the repair side track. Remove the track retaining link pin. Slowly release the winch to relax the track. Use a cheater or board to conduct the track off the final drive and away from the repair work area.

* Remove the belly pan to final drive bolts, front (with biq square washer), and rear.

* Use a hand winch to lift out the repair side cylinder support: use a cheater to pull the two large bolts on the front of the repair side 3-pt hitch lift cylinder support, above and in front of the rear cross shaft. While working the lift cylinder up and forward, winch the support up and turn it outward to free it from the chassis, while leaving the lift cylinder attached. Tie off the lift cylinder away from the repair site.

* Remove the 8 bolts holding the repair side drive sprocket. Pull sprocket.

* Remove seat. Remove fuel tank. The final drive is now ready to unbolt.

* Once the final drive is exposed, and all the surrounding hardware has been removed, the drive itself can be unbolted. There are a couple of hard to reach bolts that are torqued enough to be a challenge. First, open the top cover from the steering clutch and loosen the brake retaining bolt so the brake band is slack and free of the drum.

* Remove the floor plate (4x 9/16" bolts) under the steering levers to provide access to the interior front bottom belly pan to final drive bolt & big washer. It is easiest to reach from the inside & above. Pull that bolt (3/4"). Pull the rear belly pan to final drive bolt (regular washer) too, it is easy to reach from the bottom rear.

* There are two steering clutch housing to final drive bolts (15/16"), inside just above and between the two belly pan bolts. Break them loose with a socket and drive, then run them out with a pneumatic impact drive.

* The four 1 1/8" rocker arm to final drive bolts are seriously torqued, and will take some effort, unless you have an awsome impact drive. The upper two bolts are special, they have a machined barrel surface with some thinner sections to the bolt and are hard to confuse with other bolts. Be sure to restore them to the correct location during reassembly. The inner bolts can only be reached from under the dozer. Use a 1 1/8" socket on a 3/4" drive, the upper bolt requires a 6" extension, the lower bolt does not. With the drive and socket in place, and the drive ready to turn the bolt, place a small hydraulic jack under the end of the drive handle/lever and use the jack to lift the lever to break loose the bolt. This works for both inside bolts (reassembly will need something similar: use a lever against the belly pan to turn the torque wrench down). The outer bolts can be reached with a 1 1/8" box wrench (lower) and socket (upper) drive, use cheaters to gain the needed leverage.

* Place a hefty jack under the rocker cross beam, just in front of where the final drive is bolted (the bolts just removed, above). It is not needed, but is reassuring to look at. If placed just right during reassembly, the jack will help align the final drive to the rocker shaft.

* The only remaining (6) bolts are on the outside top of the final drive. The third set from the top are 1/2" bolts, and longer. The other 4 are 15/16" bolts and much shorter.

* Pull the 1/2" bolts. Locate two 16"+ long 1/2" all thread rods, and screw them in. Place nuts on the ends. The rods need to be at least 2" longer than the free space from the front of the final drive to the undercarriage rail, as the final drive will travel on these rods to clear the steering clutch. Support the front of the rods by lashing a rope, chain, etc, to each of them just behind the nuts, and use a hand winch to pull up on the rope/chain slightly. Apply enough lift to keep the rods from deflecting down, as they are keeping the final drive's drive shaft from bending the throwout bearing guide tube.

* Pull the top 4 7/8" bolts. There should be no other bolts holding the final drive in place. Inspect the drive to be sure that you have removed all the retaining bolts.

* Use a cheater or lever to nudge the final drive free and start it traveling on the 1/2" threaded rods. Use a long screwdriver or the like and push back the brake band as it tries to follow the final drive forward. Make sure the drive shaft is coming out gracefully and not bearing on the throwout bearing carrier tube nor getting jammed up with the brake band. Adjust the tension on the hand winch supporting the 1/2" threaded rods as needed. Nudge the final drive forward, and push back the brake band until the drive has traveled the full length of the rods and the outside of the final drive is blocked from further travel by the undercarriage rail.

* The final drive now needs to be rotated on the axis of the drive shaft WITHOUT BEARING ON THE CARRIER TUBE. The rotation lifts the bottom of the final drive to the back and up, to where it clears the undercarriage rail and can be removed from the dozer.

* Use webbing or rope. Fit one end through the conveniently located 1/2" hole in the bottom front middle of the hydraulic tank box (pull the two 9/16" bolts holding the cover to see the 1/2" hole). Secure that end of the webbing/rope by knotting it-it will need to hold about 100 lbs or more, so use a good material and check that the 1/2" hole won't cut the webbing/rope. Sling the webbing/rope between the final drive and the steering clutch housings, under the brake drum, to hold up/support the drum. You can use a trick to tighten the rope: open the lid on the hydraulic tank so that it is upright. Tie the unattached end of the sling to the lid's handle with slight tension, and then lower the lid-it should draw up the sling. Adjust until the sling is lifting the final drive by the brake drum, but only enough to hold it up, not so much that it binds the drive shaft or bends the throwout bearing carrier. You may want to load the sling enough that it lifts when the lid is partially closed, to give yourself a little extra lift later in the game if needed by lowering the lid more.

* Once the brake drum sling is holding up the final drive, remove the 1/2" all thread rods, their webbing/rope and supporting winch. There should be nothing retaining the final drive now, just the brake drum supporting sling.

* Use wooden blocks layed on the track and floor to support the front of the final drive, and place a floor jack off center to the front of the base of the final drive-jacking that should spin the final drive on the slung brake drum. You may also want to place a bolt into one of the rear side holes and use a hand winch to help lift/spin the drive. Gently use the jack, blocks, and winches to rotate the final drive about the drive shaft axis, iterate until the final drive clears the undercarriage rail and the drive shaft clears the throwout bearing tube. You may be able to pull the drive shaft out by hand and or pull the clutch pressure plate to release it-you can leave it in place too, and dismantle the clutch later. In either case, the final drive is ready to hoist.

* Attach a chain to the final drive at the rearmost 1/2" hole (two holes down from the top rear). Use a chain hoist/lift/backhoe/3+strong men/whatever and carefully hoist the final drive from the dozer. Take care to free all the slings and winches as the load comes off them onto the hoist, the final drive will want to fall or spin.

* Reassembly is the reverse of the above. Clean everything, clean it again... Do not make this a waste of time and money, Do Not Contaminate the clutch and brake during re-installation. Use a fresh clean sling for the brake drum (or lay clean cloth on the old one) to NOT CONTAMINATE THE BRAKE DRUM during reassembly. Once the brake and clutch are re-adjusted, use a new gasket and permatex the lid down to where NO OIL OR WATER can enter the steering clutch. Never open the cover without a FULL CLEANING FIRST, always reseal the lid with permatex.